Bill In Nam

2011-08-26T08:50:00.001+07:00

Well, the BIG trip to the US is about to come to an end. Anh flew home last week but I had to stay here for another couple of weeks to take care of some last minute business. I will be heading back home on Sept 4. It's hard to believe that we did and saw so much in the two months that Anh was here.
After our trip to Alaska, we stopped off in Colorado for about a week before flying to Louisville, Kentucky for my Marine reunion. I always enjoy the reunions though they wear me out. It seems like it's non-stop for a week of getting back in touch with some of the most special men in the world. It's kind of interesting though. People ask what we talk about at the reunions. They wonder if we sit around and tell our war stories. Nope. I never heard one war story this year. We talked about our hip replacements, our prostates, and our Social Security checks. Anh was a big hit at the reunion. She had met several of the
Marines before when they came to Vietnam on tour

so she wasn't completely new to the party. She was able to talk to a lot of the guys about what it's like in Vietnam today and helped put some of their minds to rest that the war really is over now. We got all gussied up for the big banquet on Saturday night and I must say we were elegant. The Assistant Commandant of the Marine Corps was our guest speaker and of course Anh wanted to get a picture of her and the man with all the stars on his shoulders.

While in Louisville, we also had the chance to see our dear friends John and Caroline who live in Bangkok part of the year. They were having an export show in Louisville just before the reunion started. So we got to see the Jim Beam distillery and Churchill Downs together. After the reunion, Anh and I rented a car and drove up to Dayton, Ohio to spend a few days at John and Caroline's farm. It was a wonderful time to relax and enjoy some dear friends. Anh especially loved driving their red "mule" around the farm.

All in all, it has been a wonderful trip. We saw ten states (including Alaska) and was able to introduce Anh to my family. I think she will want to come back again someday soon.

North to Alaska

2011-07-30T22:55:00.002+07:00

Next stop: Alaska! Our good friend Suel lives in Da Nang in the winter and in Alaska in the summer. Anh and I decided to give him a visit while we were in the neighborhood. This part of our adventure was all a spur of the moment decision. This wasn't in our plan but since we were held up getting Anh's visa at the beginning of the trip, we really have no plan. I figured that if we were ever going to see Alaska together, this was the time to do it. We are so glad we did. The weather was perfect, mid 80's during midday and cooling off to mid 60's at night (what little night there was). It didn't get dark until after midnight.

Suel has a little cabin on the Matanuska Glacier, about a hundred miles outside of Anchorage. He has no running water but does have electricity and had set up a cozy little loft for us that looks out over some of the most beautiful country in the world. We spent most of our time just sitting on the porch talking and laughing and eating. Anh kicked Suel out of his kitchen while she tried her hand at cooking like a mountain woman. She can whip up a mean moose goulash.

We had a great time driving around to meet Suel's neighbors and see how the 'real people' in Alaska live. It was really fun getting to meet some of his friends and visit their homes. Everyone in his neck of the woods has built their own house and some of them are very unique.

Anh was anxious to see some bear and moose. We didn't see any bear but we did find some moose! We were given some moose and bear sausage to take back to Vietnam with us.

California

2011-07-30T22:07:00.000+07:00

Next on our agenda was to visit Anh's daughter and niece in Phoenix. Our flight from Wichita to Phoenix was canceled and we were re-routed on a later flight with a layover in Chicago. Don't ask why we had to go to Chicago to get to Phoenix. It's another example of logic in flying. But it did give Anh one more state to add to her list of places visited. Arizona was even hotter than Kansas (115) but it wasn't humid so it was almost bearable.

Just seeing Anh and her daughter Na get together for the first time in nearly three years was enough to make the trip a success. It was well after midnight before our plane landed and we were all exhausted but we stayed up and chatted until the wee hours.

Though our stay in Phoenix was short, we did have a great time there. It was especially fun to get to know Anh's neice's daughter, Ashlinn, who liked to dance for us and try to teach me Vietnamese.

After two nights in Phoenix, we hit the road and drove out to El Monte, California to visit Anh's sister and her family. El Monte has a large Vietnamese population and is called "Little Saigon". It was almost like driving in downtown Saigon with all the Vietnamese shops and restaurants on the streets. I was amazed by how patriotic the Vietnamese living there are. Everywhere you looked, there were American flags flying, even inside homes and on automobiles. There is a memorial in El Monte that the Viet community erected to honor both the American and South Vietnamese soldiers.

We took advantage of our time in Southern California to do a bit of touristy stuff. Anh's daughter and boyfriend drove us to Hollywood so we could walk on the stars of Hollywood Blvd. and then go to Santa Monica to visit the pier.

Anh has some friends in San Diego who she has worked with as a guide. They invited us to spend a few nights with them in their lovely home. KV and her husband Hung both worked for the Southern government during the war and were able to evacuate to the US during the fall of Saigon. They were quite interesting to talk with and I wish we would have had more time together but after three days, it was time to move on.

Kansas

2011-07-29T11:24:00.000+07:00

We've been here in the States together for over a month now and have covered a lot of ground. Since we were delayed in our start, nothing is really being planned and we are winging it. That leads to some complications in logistics but nothing we haven't been able to overcome. So far, it's been a great trip.

It was hot as blazes in Kansas while we were there, officially 112 degrees but the thermometer on the parking lot at the car show we attended read 134. That's hot! It was fun showing Anh the old 'muscle cars' of the sixties in spite of the heat. We also visited Cow Town, a heritage center in Wichita where they have moved many of the old homes and businesses that were in use in the late 1800's to create an authentic look at what the west was like in the old days. They even put on a gunfight on Main Street. Of course, Anh had to share a sasparilla with the gunfighters.

The best part of our time in Kansas was spending time with my mother. Even though mom has been having some health problems, we were still able to have some wonderful times together. Anh really enjoyed working in mom's flower garden and puttering around the house. As an added bonus my sister was able to fly in from North Carolina to spend a few days with us and get to meet Anh.

Back in the USA

2011-07-04T20:59:00.000+07:00

After over a month of waiting, we finally made it. I had to return to the States a couple of weeks before Anh's visa came through but she finally got and was able to get to Colorado without any problems. When I saw her coming up the stairway at the airport, the smile on her face made all the waiting worthwhile.I met her with flowers, an American flag, and a big kiss. She looked great in her red top and red hat.

Our first stop was to head to Boulder and drive by my house. We couldn't go inside since I have someone renting the place right now but we were able to see it from the outside. We drove up into the foothills behind my house so that she could see the open space at the base of the Flatirons and look down upon the city. Boulder is beautiful this time of year. They had a lot of snow during the winter and quite a bit of rain in the spring so everything was green and fresh.

The Pearl Street Mall in Boulder is one of my favorite places to hang out. There are plenty of good restaurants and places to have a beer while people watching. We met my good friend Chris and his daughter who had come to Vietnam over Christmas. It kind of felt like old home week to see a lot of the people I haven't seen in over a year. Everyone seemed to like Anh, but why wouldn't they?

We got up early the next day and headed up into the Mountains. There was still a lot of snow in the high country and Anh had never seen snow before. It was a beautiful, sunny day with puffy white clouds and, once we had gotten up into the high country, enough snow to play around in it. We drove over Loveland Pass, the highest all-year road in the US and stood on the Continental divide before driving down the other side to the ski area of Arapahoe Basin. The ski area was still open even though it was late June. We didn't try skiing ourselves because I didn't want any broken legs this early in our trip.

My son and his family invited us over to their house for a homemade Mexican dinner. It was outstanding. I had forgotten how good real Mexican food can taste. It was also fun to play with my two granddaughters, Cody and Alex.

Four days after Anh's arrival, we boarded a plane again and flew to Kansas to see my mother. Anh had not met my mother yet and was really looking forward to getting together with her. I think the two of them are going to hit it off great together. It's hotter than hell here, 105 degrees. Much hotter than Vietnam so we are spending most of our time indoors.

A Disillusioned American

2011-06-07T11:14:00.001+07:00

Anh and I have known each other for more than nine years and have been married for over a year. I am sixty-two years old, US citizen, and a veteran. Anh is fifty, a Vietnamese citizen, and business woman. We own property in Vietnam, have our own house, and Anh has a very successful job as a national tour guide. We want to go back to the US so that Anh can finally meet my family, especially my mother who is currently undergoing chemotherapy. Should be no problem, right? Wrong!

For some undisclosed reason, the US Consulate's office has Anh's visa on hold. We filled out the required forms, we paid the $130 application fee, we flew to Saigon for the interview and were told that she passed but it would be a few days before they could process the visa. That was on May 18, nearly a month ago. When we try to find out what is going on, we find there is no way we can talk with a real person. The telephone number is an automated service that runs you around in circles then hangs up. We have sent three emails to the address given on the website but, we get no response. The consulate's office does not have the decency to let us know what is happening. To go to the office in person is a waste of time and money. They will not let me inside to deal with this matter. They give me a phone number to call. It is the same number that runs in cirlces.
I find it appalling to be treated this way by my government and resent the lack of cooperation I get when trying to get this matter resolved. Why should there be any question of whether or not I can take my wife to my country to meet my family? We have done nothing wrong. Hell, we don't even want to stay in the US. all we want is a few months over there. But it's like complaining at the airport security check. Say anything and you are shoved aside until it's too late to travel. Knowing this, I have tried to be very polite, to the point of grovelling in my correspondence but have been ignored.

What has happened to my America? Have we become so fearful that we have given up all of our rights and freedoms? Must we be content to be treated like cattle while the man behind the desk sips his coffee and smiles at our discomfort. It's humiliating and shameful. Let's not forget the ideals our country was based upon; the pursuit of life, liberty, and happiness.

Rest in Peace

2011-04-27T11:07:00.000+07:00

Though the war between the United States and Vietnam has been over for more than forty years, there are more than a thousand Americans who have not yet returned. But they have not been forgotten. Unprecedented efforts between the US and Vietnam to locate these missing men have resulted in finding nearly half of these missing and the search continues to this day.

Four black boxes, four silver caskets, four folded flags. It was a solemn affair on the tarmac at Da Nang airport as the remains of American servicemen were prepared for the long flight back to the United States.Anh and I were invited by JPAC (Joint Prisoner of War, Missing in Action Accountability Command) to attend a repatriation ceremony on April 9th. I was impressed by the professionalism that was shown by the team in the handling of the remains. It was indeed an honor to be a part of this event.

One by one, black wooden boxes containing the remains were placed in individual coffins which were then draped with an American flag before being carried to the waiting C-130 transport plane. Though the remains often consist of no more than a single tooth or bone fragment, they are handled with all the dignity and respect deserved by those who have given their all for their country.No names were read or personal tributes offered. The identity of those found must first be confirmed by the forensic team in Hawaii before any names will be released. It's been a long time coming for these men and their families. Hopefully, they can now find peace.

"Pete" Peterson, the first American Ambassador to Vietnam after the war and former POW was present at the ceremony. Anh and I have had the pleasure to get to know Mr. Peterson and his wife, Vi over the past few years and had dinner with them after the ceremony.

Thailand

2011-04-27T07:04:00.000+07:00

During the beginning of the Tet holiday, Anh and I flew to Bangkok to join up with our friends John and Caroline and Nikki to set off on our adventure through northern Thailand and Laos. I had never spent any time up in the northern part of Thailand before and was anxious to see it since I've heard so many great stories about it.Our first stop was Chiang Rai, a northern town in Thailand.

The White Temple is located outside of Chiang Rai and is something that should not be missed if passing through this part of Thailan. The ornate temple is all in white and silver and looks almost like something you would find in a frozen landscape. I can't remember the whole story about this place but do know it is still a work in progress. A Thai artist has come up with the concept and gets most of his funding through donations.

We rented a car in Chang Rai and drove up to the northern border with Burma (Myanmar). A group of people called the Karens live up there and are known for the heavy brass rings they wear on their necks that push their shoulders down, giving them the appearance of having extremely long necks. I remember seeing an article about them in National Geographic when I was a kid and was fascinated by them. To see them in real life is even more fascinating. They begin the process of stretching their necks at a very young age and life their entire lives with the adornments. I picked up one of the neck bands and was shocked by how heavy it was. I estimated it to weigh at least fifteen pounds.

The Karen people come from Burma but have fled across the border into Thailand to seek refuge from the heavy-handed Burmese government. They live in simple mountain villages and make their living today mostly from tourists that come through and buy their handmade jewelry and clothing.

The Mighty Mekong

2011-03-27T07:54:00.000+07:00

After spending five days in Thailand, we drove to the small northern town of Chiang Khong to begin our two day cruise down the Mekong River. We had to catch a small shuttle boat across the river to get our Visas into Laos then boarded a long boat to take us down the river about 300 km to our final destination of Luang Pra Bang, Laos.

The journey is a journey through time, taking us past remote villages and spectacular wilderness areas where few outsiders venture. The geography seems to change endlessly as we wind our way down this mighty river. The river is low this time of year but our boat man said it was even lower than normal. The Chinese have put numerous dams higher up stream, causing the Mekong to reduce to not much more than a trickle in many areas we pass through.

We pull in for the night in the small village named Pak Tha and have a great meal and some cold beer at the guesthouse we have reserved for the night. The air is cool early the next morning when we head out for our final leg of the trip, causing us to wrap ourselves in blankets as we watch the local people in their morning routines of fishing and washing clothing along the river banks. We even saw some 'working' elephants being led to the river for their morning bath and drink before beginning their day of hauling huge timbers from the surrounding rain forest

Doc Smith and Hoa

2011-01-18T10:59:00.001+07:00

In 1967 Glenn Smith was a Corpsman working with Marine CAP Unit Charlie 2-2-4 in the small village of Dai Loc, just south of Da Dang. A CAP unit (Combined Action Program)consisted of a small group of Marines assigned to live in a village and help pacify and protect the people in the area. As a result, they often got to know the local people quite well. While Glenn spent most of his time on the Marine base located on Hill 65 just outside of Dai Loc, he would often go down to the village to help the villagers and the Marines.

Hoa was a young boy of about ten when Doc Smith arrived in his village. Though only a young boy, Hoa idolized the Marines and hung out with them every day. He polished their boots, cleaned their weapons, and often slept in the bunkers with them. He considered himself a Marine. Today, Hoa's guesthouse near Marble Mountain has become almost a legend to the backpackers that pass through the Da Nang area. His English and his "take it easy" attitude have made him loved and respected by most who have gotten to know him. He has become a very dear friend of mine.

One cannot spend much time around Hoa without hearing of Charlie 2-2-4 and the days of the war. He often speaks of the Marines who lived in his village and became such a big part of his life. I decided one day to do a little research on C-2-2-4 and came across an email address for Glenn Smith. When I asked Glenn if he knew or remembered a boy named Hoa, Glenn replied immediately that he did indeed remember him. He even had photographs of the two of them together.This initial contact resulted in Glenn coming back to Vietnam, something he had often considered but never acted upon. Hoa and Glenn got back together after forty three years.

The death of Marine Sgt. Flynn was an event that both Hoa and Glenn remembered very well. Glenn was the Corpsman who retrieved Flynn's body after he was shot while trying to cross the river. Hoa thought of Sgt. Flynn as almost a father figure. Before coming back to Vietnam, Glenn had some dogtags made for Sgt. Flynn and wanted to put them in the river close to where he was killed. We went back to the scene and had to walk across a muddy flood plain to get to the river. Hoa probably doesn't weigh a hundred pounds and skirted over the mud like a waterbug. Glenn, on the other hand, weighs more than two hundred pounds and sunk into the sucking mud up to his knees. As Glenn was trying to retrieve his shoe that had been pulled off by the muck, Hoa turned to him and said, "Glenn, walk lightly."

December

2011-01-10T15:15:00.000+07:00

It's hard to believe that another year has begun. The month of December flew by us.We had some friends, Al and Carol Chesson,come over for their second tour over here. They were on the first trip I led with Anh as my guide over here in 2002. We tried to get a look at places they weren't able to see the first time. We tried to get back up into the DMZ again where Al and I served, but the rain was coming down in buckets. We spent the night in Khe Sanh but had to get out of there early in the morning to avoid becoming stuck by mudslides across Highway 9.

We caught the train to Ninh Binh south of Hanoi and stayed for a few nights to go up the river on small boats. It's magnificent there. The landscape is similar to Ha Long Bay but on dry land.

Next, we headed west to a small village called Mai Chau where we did a 'homestay' in a stilted house. The bamboo forests were unbelievable and the village, though becoming a little touristy, was fun to wander around in
.

The night train took us up to the northern tip of Vietnam to visit the popular villages of Sapa and Bac Ha. Both of these areas are known for the colorful clothing worn by the local women. Sapa, with its incredible terracing and cool climate has made it a favorite of travelers for nearly a century.

Each Sunday, the town of Bac Ha holds its Lover's Market where the local people for miles around put on their finest garments and gather for a time of socializing and romance.

After that, we went to Hanoi to pick up Glenn. Glenn served as a Corpsman and was on his first trip back to Vietnam since the war. We all loaded up in a van the next morning and headed off to Ha Long Bay. I don't know how many times I've seen the Bay but I am always in awe of it. To spend the night on a boat in Ha Long Bay is an experience that never gets old.

November 9-10, 2010

2010-12-06T06:08:00.022+07:00

November has been a busy month for us. To start it off, Anh and I got married. Actually, we got 'officially' married in March but didn't have the party until November ninth. You aren't considered really married until you have the celebration with family and friends. We had friends from the US come over and also some American friends who live in Bangkok come for the occasion. This plus a number of our Vietnamese and foreign friends living in Da Nang made for a great wedding party.

The day following our party was November 10, the Marine Corps birthday. So of course, another party was in order and there was no better place to hold the party than on China Beach. There were eight of us in attendance, six Vietnam veterans, one Iraqi vet, and a Vietnamese man who hung out with the Marine CAP unit in his village when he was a boy. In traditional form, we had an NCO cut the cake then offer the first piece to the oldest Marine present (Suel) and the second piece to the youngest Marine (Sam).

Vietnam:Beyond War

2010-09-16T10:49:00.010+07:00

Several years ago I published a book titled Vietnam: A Second Look. It is a photo book about my thoughts and feelings as a veteran returning to Vietnam for another look at the places where I had been during the war. Well, I've been working on a new one and it's starting to shape up. My new book is titled Vietnam: Beyond War and will be a collection of thoughts and photographs on what it's been like to live in Vietnam. Though it is still far from being finished, here is a preview of what this new book should look like. You can click on the images to get a larger view of them.

Back in Town

2010-09-10T09:23:00.000+07:00

I've been a pretty busy guy for the past several months so I have neglected to post anything new on my blog for a while. I guess it's time to get caught up on things.

First and foremost on the list is I got married! Yep, that's right! I married Anh on March 31 of this year and we are happy as can be. We haven't had time to celebrate with a wedding party yet put are trying to get that set up now. Looks like it could be in November when many of our friends are back in country. I will keep you posted.

I had to return to the US the first of July and was there for six weeks getting my house in Colorado ready to rent. It looks like I may be in Vietnam for a while but don't want to sell my home in the States. It's not a good time to sell right now and besides, I love my house there. While I was 'home' I took time to go to Kansas and visit my mother then went to Charleston, S.C. for my Marine Reunion. Those things are always a hoot. It worked out well because my sister and her husband live in North Carolina, which is not too far from Charleston, so I drove up to see them as well. All in all, it was a busy time but very much worth it.

I am back in Da Nang, Vietnam now and trying to get acclimatized to the food, weather, pace of life, and married life. It is good! Da Nang seemed to change so much just in the time I was away. There is so much building and energy going on over here that things change on a daily basis.

Anh and I are gearing up for what looks to be a busy next few months. We have several tours scheduled and several friends coming over to visit. Some of my kids may even get over here before Christmas. I can't wait to introduce them to Anh.

I haven't been taking many photos lately but will try to get some new pictures up soon.

Ho Chi Minh Trail

2010-04-14T06:38:00.014+07:00

Once a network of supply routes for war and destruction, the Ho Chi Minh Trail today offers one of Vietnam's most beautiful experiences. This magnificent road, running the length of the country from the Chinese border to the Delta, winds through the mountains and valleys along the Cambodian and Laos borders. Though the road is surfaced and wide enough for cars and small trucks, only a few vehicles travel this route. It is a motorcyclist's dream.

It takes about twenty minutes to get through the traffic and chaos of the populated cities before you head west across the rice fields and into the mountains. The roads are unmarked and there are very few places where English is spoken. But for those who have a sense of adventure, it is an experience to remember.

I have traveled the trail between Da Nang and Hue at least six times now (all the way to Khe Sanh a couple of times) and am still in awe of the beauty and wonder of it all. It's a four day trip through the mountains and jungles, skirting the Laos border, offering a unique view of the mountain people and their way of life.

There always seem to be magic moments that come along when you least expect them. On one trip, we passed by an old veteran with one arm who was needing a ride to the next village. Of course, we couldn't pass him by so we gave him a lift and had a couple of beers with him once we reached a local watering hole.

I've started working for an outfit that will guide you through the trail, either driving a vintage, Russian Minsk bike or riding on the back of an experienced driver's bike. I usually take my own bike for the long trips. I like it because it has more padding in the seat. Of course, I wear a helmet and proper riding attire on the road, not as shown.

We offer day trips around Hoi An or four and five day trips up to the DMZ. We wind our way through areas where some of the heaviest fighting of the war took place. It's pretty incredible to cool off in a fresh mountain stream where armies once clashed.

Nick

2010-03-30T11:19:00.009+07:00

Nick served with 3/27 Marines in 1969 and hadn't been back to Vietnam since. Like most vets who choose to return, he was a little anxious and uncertain of what he was looking for. But he did have places he wanted to see again and he brought a photograph of a Vietnamese friend that he wanted to try to find. In the company of
his cousin, Larry, he came to Vietnam to get in touch with his past.

Nick contacted me through the Internet and asked if I could help him find some of the places he was looking for; Nui Kim Son, Hills 55 and 65, Tu Cau Bridge, Go Noi.. Most of the places he wanted to see were within a couple of hours drive by motorbike and I was familiar with the areas.

First on the agenda was to try to locate the man in the photograph. Nick knew the man when he was stationed near the small village of Nui Kim Son at the base of Marble mountain. We pulled the photograph out and showed it to a lady where we had lunch. The next thing we knew, it seemed like half the village was crowded around out table. No one could identify the man but Nick had an extra copy of the photo and left it with them. The next day, a woman was waiting outside of Nicks guesthouse and told him they had found the family. We were taken to the family house and learned the man in the photo had died several years back. We were able to meet with the man's children and wife though. We were led upstairs to the family shrine and burnt incense to the man's spirit. We did have success in locating the areas Nick wanted to see. Like most who return to Vietnam, he couldn't believe how much everything has changed. What were once Marine strongholds were now villages with paved roads and satalite dishes on the homes. There is a Vietnamese monument on the top of Hill 55 now and chilie pepper farms cover Hill 65. Go Noi seems so much closer to noisey highway 1. Tu Cau Bridge is still there but is being prepared to be torn down. Only motorbikes and bicycles use it now.

After seeing the old stomping grounds, we caught the train to Hue. With the exception of inside the Citidel and a few isolated buildings, nothing remains of the devestation of Tet of '68.

Year of the Tiger

2010-02-16T08:04:00.021+07:00

Tet, the Lunar New Year is upon us. Throughout Asia, people celebrate by remembering their ancestors, brightening up their houses, visiting friends, and partying. It's a ten day affair of good times much like a combination of our Christmas, New Years, and Memorial Day all rolled into one. The streets are filled with flower vendors and music. This is The Year of The Tiger.

Outside, a young man burns offerings to his ancestors. Money, shoes, suits of clothing both modern and traditional, all made of tissue paper, are completely consumed so that they my enter the spirit world to be joined with the loved ones who have gone before.

Inside, the old woman sits before the family shrine with incense and prayers to her husband and children who have passed. She is ninety-six years old and has traveled 600 miles from Saigon to visit her family house where she raised a family of ten children and twelve other family members during a time of war. Her hands and her frail body are records of the hardships but her eyes tell a story of love. I wish I could speak with her and hear her stories.

Five of her daughters have come to celebrate the new year with her. Together, they prepare a feast before traveling to the countryside to visit the family tombs. The road through the cemetery is dirt and full of rocks, making it difficult to push the wheelchair but the mother does not complain. It may be the last time she is able to make this journey. Thankfully, a man with a motorbike offers to ride her back to the car.

New Year 2010

2010-02-05T06:58:00.007+07:00

I went back to The States over the holidays and froze my butt. Damn, it was cold (-6 F /-22 C) while I was there. and we had snow! I had a great time with my family while there so the cold was bearable. All of my grandkids have grown since I last saw them. Here is a picture of Cody and Alex with their new umbrellas I brought them.

Thanksgiving

2009-11-28T13:21:00.005+07:00

There's a restaurant in Da Nang completely staffed by deaf kids. It's called The Bread of Life and it's owned by Kathleen and Bob, an American couple from Kansas. They serve real American food and it's favorite place for the expat community to eat. Every Thanksgiving Kathleen puts together a traditional holiday meal complete with turkey, dressing, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce, and pumpkin pie. A bunch of us went there this year and stuffed ourselves. The Vietnamese who joined us thought the food was a little strange but most of them agreed it wasn't bad.

If you are in Da Nang, stop in at The Bread of Life if you are in the mood for a good western meal. Not only is the food great, but you'll be helping the deaf community. It's just a block off the river behind the Green Plaza hotel on Le Hong Phong Street. Oh yea, they serve a mean pizza too. And they deliver.

Happy Birthday Marines

2009-11-11T07:51:00.004+07:00

There is a small contingent of Marines living in Vietnam these days, about six that I know of. And as Marines all over the world, those of us who were in town took time out yesterday to celebrate the Marine Corps 234th Birthday and remember our fallen brothers. What better place to do this than on China Beach. The beer was warm, the vodka cheap, and the cake messy but we had a great time.

The party was not restricted to Marines. We had friends and families join us so there was an interesting mix at our little party. The conversations ran from war stories to politics, from family issues to health issues, from life in the US to life in Vietnam. It was a good time for us with a few tears and a lot of laughter.

I want to wish all my Marines out there a Happy Birthday and to all who served, a happy Veterans Day.

Semper Fidelis
Bill

2009-10-06T09:29:00.006+07:00

I haven't made any new postings for a while because I've been back in the States for a couple of months. While there, I did some remodeling to my house in Colorado, visited family, and went to the Marine reunion. So, all in all, it was a good trip but I was definitely ready to get back here again. I'm back in Da Nang now and trying to readjust to the time zone and the culture again. It always takes about a week to get back on track.

I missed the big typhoon that blew in through this area last week. I arrived two days after the storm hit and the remnants were still visible when I got here; trees down, power lines down, and a lot of flooding to the south of Da Nang. Though Da Nang did have damage, the brunt of the storm hit about thirty miles south of here. Work crews have been busy cleaning up and I am amazed at how fast they have put things back in order. Other than a little water seepage through a few walls, my house remained in pretty good shape.

The Ho Chi Minh Trail

2009-07-09T08:37:00.023+07:00

I turned twenty in Vietnam when I was here in 1969 and now, on the first of July of this year, I turned sixty. The picture to the right was taken of me up on the DMZ on my 20th birthday. I'm the guy sitting on the left. My sister sent me a birthday package complete with party hats, whistles, streamers, and a cake. Though the cake was green with mold by the time it got to me, we ate it anyway.

For my 60th birthday, Anh got a couple of friends together and we took a motorbike ride through the jungled mountains along the Laotian boarder on what is now called The Ho Chi Minh Trail. It was a magnificent two-day trip into a part of the country where few tourists venture.The Vietnamese have developed a network of roads through the mountainous areas and have appropriately called it The Ho Chi Minh Trail. Much of it actually is part of the old trail used by the North during the war and it runs through some of the most rugged and remote parts of Vietnam from Hanoi to the Delta in the south.

We took a 500km ride starting from Da Nang and heading west into the mountains. Once we got up close to the Laotian boarder, we headed north to the small town of A Lui in the Ashau Valley about 80 km west of Hue. This was some of the most spectacular scenery I have seen with dense jungle, rushing rivers and low hanging clouds as far as the eye could see.

About every twenty km or so we would pass through a village with straw huts and colorful people. Most of these villages have what is called a rung, a community house where the people gather for social events or official business.

Eggshell and Lacquer

2009-06-06T10:56:00.006+07:00

We have a piece of art in the house that I am really fond of. It's a stylized market scene and is about 36"x 24". The image itself is amazingly beautiful with the straw hats and baskets but when you look at how it's made, it is incredible. This is a lacquer and eggshell piece of art. The image is made with dyed eggshells pressed into a fixative then the entire piece is covered with a meticulous lacquer coating. There are several galleries in Saigon that produce this type of art and are very interesting to visit and watch work in progress.

Hoa's Place

2009-06-04T07:03:00.004+07:00

The twenty five miles of beach that runs south from Da Nang to Hoi An is rapidly vanishing under the jaws of bulldozers and concrete. This paradise lost has been found by foreign investors who are putting up huge resorts and golf courses. But there still remains one island of refuge amidst all the development though it will most likely fall victim to the new growth soon. Hoa's Place sits off the coast highway at the base of Marble Mountain. It's a sleepy little guesthouse and restaurant run by a man named Hoa (pronounced "Wha"). Hoa is a small man in his mid 50's who speaks very good English and puts out a reasonable facsimile of a hamburger. His beer is cold, and the food is pretty damn good.He operates about 12 rooms for rent on a daily, weekly, or monthly basis. The rooms are within a two minute walk of the beach and go for under ten bucks a night. Hoa's place is pretty well known and is listed in The Lonely Planet if you want to know more about the facilities.

But it's Hoa that makes the place special. I've gotten to know Hoa over the past four or five months and always enjoy sitting down and having a chat with him over a cool beer.Though he barely stands five feet tall, he has a big heart, especially for American servicemen. Hoa worked with a Marine CAP unit in his home village of Dai Loc during the war days. He was only eleven when the Americans came and was barely fourteen when he would join them on patrols. He has the heart of a Marine and the mouth of a drill instructor. But when you learn your English from a bunch of Marines, what do you expect.

Year One

2009-05-03T10:46:00.002+07:00

Last week marked the anniversary of my being in Vietnam for a year. What started out to be a year of new experience and adventure has become a major milestone in my life. I’ve built a new house, found a wonderful lady, made many new friends, and have been able to see the world from a totally new perspective.

Vietnam is a stew, a blend of colors, textures, and smells that fills one’s head with strange flavor of something completely different than anything I have experienced in the past. Even though I have been here many times over the past fifteen years, I see that I have only scratched the surface of this country and its people. Though not knowing the language has been a handicap in many ways, it has also forced me to become an observer. Much of my time is spent watching, watching how things are done, watching the way problems are solved, watching faces. There is a complexity about Vietnam that only those born into it can understand. If I had to come up with a phrase that would describe Vietnam, it would be “discordant harmony”. From the clothing to the music, from the language to the traffic, everything looks and sounds so incompatible but blends with the richness of a stew.

I am attempting to learn the language but it is a frustration, especially with my hearing and at my age. I try to find a way to relate the words to English but they are so different there is nothing to gain a footing on. New words get lost in the babble of unfamiliarity. But even if I become proficient in Vietnamese, I will always be an outsider, a foreigner. That’s the way it is here. To be allowed into the inner sanctity of Vietnam, you must be born here, your parents born here, and your grandparents born here. Even those who have roots in Vietnam are outsiders. Vietnam’s past is so complex and turbulent that it cannot be learned but must be experienced for generations to understand.

Though my neighborhood is only a small fraction of Vietnam, it is a good metaphor of the country and people. There are those on my street from the successful to the very poor. There are educated people, countryside people, people who served with the South and people who fought with the North. There are young children and aging couples. There are Catholics and there are Buddhists. There are those who cling to the traditional ways and those who have flung themselves into the modern age. But in spite of the differences, it makes up a society that is much like the country as a whole.

This time also marks the fortieth anniversary of my coming to Vietnam for the first time. I turned twenty here in 1969 but in many ways I was born here. Most of who I am and what I am today was spawned from those days of war. I spent much of this week reflecting on those days. I guess it is natural to do so for someone in my position. But I have to admit that they are easier to deal with now. The “right or wrong” of the war does not seem so important anymore. What is important is how life is today. And I have to say that life is good for the most part. This is true for both me and for Vietnam.

Bangkok

2009-04-19T08:09:00.004+07:00

We took a trip to Bangkok a couple of weeks ago to visit some American friends who live there. A Vietnamese couple and their daughter also joined us on the trip.I've been to Bangkok before and must say I never really liked it much before but this time it was great. It makes a difference when you're with someone who knows the city. The first day we visited the Kings Palace and saw all the amazing building on the grounds. It's really quite a sight to see with all the opulence.

Since John and Carol are in the import business, they know the shopping districts like no one else so we spent the next couple of days shopping. It was a little more shopping than I am into but we did pick up some nice things for our house.

There is political unrest in Bangkok right now and it was starting to heat up pretty good while we were there though we were able to avoid it. Since we've been back, the situation has gotten much worse and I think we were lucky to get out of there when we did. From what I hear, the airport is a real mess right now.

Friends and Foes

2009-02-09T07:20:00.000+07:00

On one of my trips back to Vietnam in 1997, I stopped off in a little place in the city of Hue called The DMZ Bar. What veteran could pass that up without checking it out. Well, the place was a dive with a pool table that filled 75% of the joint and had graffiti all over the walls. It smelled of stale beer and cigarettes. My kind of place. Anyway, there was a board where you could post a business card and I put up one of my Marine cards.

About a year later, I received a letter from a guy who had served with me during the war. He had been to Hue and came across my card. Anyway, we wrote to each other a few times then lost touch. I knew he had been living in Hanoi for a while but I didn't have a current email address for him. Last month I came across one of his old emails on my home computer and did a search on him. Finally, I came up with a new email address for him that worked.

His name is Suel Jones. We didn't actually know each other in '69 but we were with the same company at the same time. We did know some of the same people and definitely remembered some of the same events. We went through some pretty rough times together.

Come to find out, he had recently moved to Da Nang. We were finally able to hook up at a little coffee shop on Bach Dang Street by the river and spent a couple of hours comparing notes about out experiences during the war and about our experience in Vietnam since the war. It's interesting to hear other people's perspectives, especially from someone who has so much in common.

Ong Vo Thanh Tuat is a hero in his country. Achieving the rank of Major in The Peoples Army, Tuat fought in Dien Bien Phu, Khe Sanh, and the Tet Offensive of '68. He's been a journalist for the past thirty years or so and he also happens to be my neighbor.

I have visited him several times and, through Anh as our interpreter, have been able to learn a little about each other. His small home is filled with photographs, citations, books, and writings about his younger days. He's kind man with sparkling eyes and a quick smile. But he is obviously a proud man, proud of his past and of his service to his country. When he learned that I was a verteran, he became very curious about me; why I came to live in Vietnam, what do I think of his country and people, where did I serve during the war.

There are many discussions ahead, I hope. I too am curious, curious about 'the man on the other side of the wire". I want to know from the source what the war was like for them, what was moral like, what were the conditions, what are his thoughts about Giap and Ho Chi Minh, and if he thinks Vietnam has become the country they were fighting for.

Swallow House

2009-02-06T18:06:00.000+07:00

There is a building across the road from my house that was recently erected. It stands five stories high, about four meters wide and thirteen meters deep. It's an unpainted concrete structure that has only small windows on the back side making it look much like a grain silo that you would see in the Midwest. Though someone obviously lives on the ground floor, the rest of the building appears to be vacant and unfinished. I thought it strange and couldn't figure out why someone would build such a place. It's too big for a family house and too small for a hotel. I was informed it is a swallow house; a house for swallows to build their nests so they can be harvested and sold. Each morning and evening tens, if not hundreds, of swallows swoop through the sky around the house, creating a delightful dance of sight and sound for the neighborhood. I guess bird's nests for soup bring big dollars in this part of the world. I've hear as much as $800.00 USD per pound.

Tet

2009-01-26T07:23:00.000+07:00

Much has taken place since my last entry in this blog. I returned to the States for the holidays and spent time with my family. It was sure great to see them though there didn't seem to be enough time to go around. But it was good to see that all are doing well. I have been back in Da Nang for a little over a week now and am starting to get back in the swing of things over here again.

Today is the first day of the Lunar New Year (Tet). It's the year of the water buffalo which is the year I was born in and is the same for Anh. Not sure if that means anything but it sounds good. So Chuc mong nam mui (Happy New Year). Tet is a real big holiday for the Vietnamese. It's like Christmas, Thanksgiving, Memorial Day, etc. all rolled into one big celebration. The streets and shops are packed with people buying flowers and other items for their homes. They are definitely in a holiday mood. I was invited to join some friends for a "special lunch" and, of course the main dish was one of the delecacies of the Viets, dog. This wasn't my first experience with it but it's always a bit of a challenge to sit up to the table. Actually it's not bad but it's the idea of it. I guess it's all a matter of what you're use to.

My house is still not finished but is definitely livable now. All that needs done is some painting and cleaning. However, it's the holiday now and will be for at least another week. No one wants to work over the holiday. Anh and I have been working at getting things cleaned up but some of it is going to have to be done by a professional crew with a floor polisher and other equipment.

House Finished (?)

2008-12-08T07:28:00.000+07:00

Well after four completely crazy months, the house is finally finished. Well almost finished. The major construction is done and there are only a few back up items to be taken care of to make it cozy. We still need to paint and get the closets and interior doors installed, the main kitchen cabinets put in, the stair rail on, and there is one hell of a lot of clean up to be done. But the place is starting to feel like a place to live and I am pleased with it.

We had a party here last night for all the people who worked on the house. Anh and her friend Vanh fixed up a traditional meal of duck and chicken complete with rice, soup and salad. Of course there was plenty of beer on hand.

This has all come around none too soon because I head out of here to go home for the holidays next week. I will be back in The States for a month and am really looking forward to seeing everyone as well as having a good Mexican dinner. I hope the new house is all cleaned and settled by the time I return. All I have to do now is find my socks. I hear it's cold in Colorado right now.

Of Sausage, Law, and Houses

2008-10-28T07:53:00.000+07:00

Well as you can see from these pictures, my house is nearly finished. We were going to do something a little more on the outside but I like it the way it is, especially the garage door.

I am constantly impressed with the technology and equipment that is necessary for such a project. The scaffolding used to haul the cement for the roof is an example of what I mean. I really wanted them to leave it in place for an observation deck but the contractor won't part with it.

The shot of the living room looking back toward the stairs is an example of how we have stayed with neutral colors and use splashes of bold color to give ambiance, i.e the red furnishings and doors. I am most fond of the stairway. Since it is such a key element to the design of the house, I decided to go all out and make it a showpiece.

And I must say, it was tempting to not stucco over the brickwork and just have the warm feel of master craftsmen throughout the house. But the cement covering keeps the harmony of the neutral color scheme.This can be seen well in the shot of my bedroom and bathroom wall. The place needs to be tidied up little but does look cozy, don't you agree? Watching it all come together is such a rewarding experience.

I heard it once said that a man who has respect for the law and a fondness of sausage should never watch either being made. This is also true of building a house in Vietnam!

The Wet Season

2008-10-06T11:42:00.001+07:00

The wet season has begun. Every day, clouds roll in from the mountains in the west and dump rain on the city. The showers can last anywhere from fifteen minutes to several hours. The locals say this has been a mild season so far. We have not experienced any of the major typhoons that often hit Da Nang. The rain does cool things off and it can be almost chilly in the evenings. It feels good to me but many of the locals bundle up like it's freezing. Today is a bright sunny day though. However huge white thunderheads are building in the deep blue sky over the mountains, giving warning that rain will come tonight.

I have found a great little spot on the beach where I can sit under a grass umbrella and watch the surf roll in while eating a bowl of steamed clams and schrimp. Sometimes they also have roasted corn on the cob. I come here often on days when I do not have to work to get away from the noise and clamor of the city. It's peaceful there since not many people come to the beach in the middle of the day. I'm often the only person out there and can't help but feel like I am on my own private island.

Today, I met the old gentleman who lives behind me. He's kind of the celebrity of the neighborhood. He was a decorated officer with the North during the war and showed me a photograph of him standing with General Giap. He invited me into his home for coffee and a cigarette and we tried to share some information about ourselves. Again, the language barrier can be a frustration but not enough to keep us from liking each other.

Web Site

2008-09-19T11:20:00.000+07:00

I know it's been a while since I've updated this blog. Part of the reason is that I have been busy putting together a web site. I have it up and running now so check it out when you have the time. It's at www.billinnam.com I'm going to try to keep this blog current but right now, the web site has priority.

If you have an interest in visiting Vietnam. Check out the packages I have put together. I don't thing you can beat the price and I am sure you can't beat the experience.

My House

2008-09-03T16:50:00.000+07:00

For those who are not aware of it yet, it's my house they are building next door. Yep, that's right. I've made the leap and decided to have a house built over here. It looks like a good investment and besides, where else can you have a house custom built by the beach for less than it would cost to rent in Colorado for four years.

I have to admit, it's kind of scary. I've built houses before but I've never seen one done like this. I'd jump in and help but I don't have a clue of what to do. So, I just stay out of the way and try to look important.

But I couldn't do this alone. Anh, a lady I have worked with as a guide for many years is going in on the house as a partner with me. She knows how to get the people and the materials together and is doing an amazing job of it. Especially when you consider that she is on the road leading tours for much of the time. Here is a shot of her and her group of Belgians she brought through Da Nang last month. That's Anh standing on the left.

Here are a few shots of the progress and a drawing of what the final is supposed to look like. The second floor is nearly complete and they are ready to pour the concrete for the next level. The house will have two floors plus a room and kitchenette on the third level.

Construction Zone

2008-08-11T09:03:00.000+07:00

A new house is being built next door to where I’m living. It’s pretty incredible to watch the way things are constructed over here. The largest piece of equipment I’ve seen so far is a wheel barrow. They cleared the land and dug out the foundation with shovels. Cement is delivered in 50K bags and a truck load of rock and sand are piled on the sidewalk. All the concrete is mixed in the middle of the street with shovels then wheel barrowed to the forms. Bricks are brought in on a truck and unloaded by hand. It’s impressive how much gets done in a day in spite of the lack of equipment. It’s like watching a bunch of ants.

The housing market is going great guns over here right now. Inflation is a big worry and many people want to build before prices get out of reach. In my neighborhood (six blocks) there are more than twelve houses being built at the moment. With property values going up an average of 30% a year for the past three years, it’s no wonder.

It’s not only houses that are being built. The entire beach front has been cleaned up and a wide boulevard put in. Major hotels and resorts are rising from the open land in all directions. The amount of change here in Da Nang is phenomenal. When I was here in 1995, the town was old, dirty, and very poor. Today, it’s clean and becoming modern. The big problem right now is electricity. With all the new development, they can’t generate enough of it. Almost daily, they cut power to a section of the city for a few hours. It can be frustrating but you do get use to it after a while.

Back Online

2008-07-23T11:14:00.000+07:00

It's been a while since I've updated his blog because I changed Internet providers and that took a while. Things move slow over here at times. And just when they were ready to hook me up again, someone broke into my place and stole my laptop. That's a big loss not only for the computer but for the stuff that was on it. I had a bunch of photos ready to post too. Anyway, I'm back online now and want to let people know I'm still keeping on over here.

School has mellowed a bit since the summer break for the regular schools is about to wrap up and the teachers who have been away on holiday have returned. I have a little more free time now but still have to be at school six days a week. This doesn't give me much time to get out and explore too far so I have been keeping close to home. I have done a couple of interesting things though.

Those of you who spent time in Da Nang will probably remember Monkey Mountain. It's a peninsula that sticks out just to the north of the city. We used it for a radar station during the war. Today, the area is pretty sleepy but they have begun to build several resorts there. I went out there last week for a day just to get out of the city and found a great little hide-a-way that's off the beaten path. In fact, it looks like you are on a dead end to get there. They have some grass covered cabanas and small tables set up on one of the prettiest little beaches I have seen. And they serve great seafood and cold beer. What more could you ask for? There was a small party going on while I was there and they invited me over for a toast. I don't know what we were toasting but I had to be polite and drink a little who knows what with them.

Then a couple of days later, some friends and I (six of us in all) hired a small fishing boat to take us about ten miles up the coast. It was spectacular with the clear blue water and rich green mountains. We didn't catch any fish but Anh had stopped at the market before we left and picked some up for us just in case. We made "Hot Pot" (a seafood soup) right on the boat. There was a full moon that evening and we stayed out lisening to music and eating until after ten o'clock. A terific evening for all of us.

I've been in country for three months now and am getting over the novelty of being here but there are always things that come up that are surprises. Not all of the pleasant but surprises none the less. Da Nang is like any big city, there is the good and the not so good to deal with. But as far as Vietnam goes, Da Nang is the place to be right now. There is so much building and improvement going on all over the city that you can feel the energy.

Several have asked about my neighborhood. Here are a couple of shots of my street. The blue house is my neighbors to the north and the shed is directly across the street from me. There is also a shot looking down my street to the south.

I do want to get out and do some exploration before the wet season begins though. Mr. Luan (see earlier post) has invited me to come to his homeland in the central highlands with him. He has shown me some books he's helped put together about the mountain people and it looks fascinating. Hopefully I will be able to get a couple of days off in a row and go with him. It's in the area around Plieku and Doc To, about half way between Saigon and Da Nang.

Wedding Party

2008-06-17T21:44:00.000+07:00

It was a big day on the block today. My next door neighbor’s son is getting married and they threw a big party for him in the street in front of my house. Since it was basically set up on my driveway, I was invited, of course. The street was covered by a metal roof and decorated up as only the Vietnamese can do. By noon, the party was in full swing, complete with a band, karaoke, great food, and an endless supply of beer. I think the main object of the party was to see how much the American could drink because everyone wanted me to join in a toast with them. I would have been very rude for me to decline. Whoa, I did pretty damn well keeping up with them but I’m am glad I didn’t have to drive home.

New Friends

2008-06-13T10:57:00.000+07:00

I’ve often been asked how people over here treat Americans and if there is much resentment as a result of the war. I can say without reservation I have felt no sense of resentment. On the contrary, when people learn that I am an American, they often go out of their way to be helpful. I’ve only been in country for two months now and have made more friends than I would have thought possible in a year. Of course, I am a curiosity in the neighborhood and all of my neighbors have had to stop by to check me out. But once we have introduced ourselves, they are always quick with a genuine smile and a wave. I’ve even been invited to the wedding of my neighbor’s daughter next week. That should be interesting.

This is Phan Duc Nhuan, a man I met a couple of weeks ago. He is having a house built in the neighborhood and he heard about me being here. He stopped by to introduce himself and we seemed to hit it off right away, especially when he learned that I served here during the war. He is an intelligent, gentle man who is retired but plays in the local symphony. And he fought on the other side of the wire during the war. Since he doesn’t speak English and I speak no Vietnamese, we have had to limit our conversations through a translator when one is available but we have learned a lot about each other and are becoming good friends with a great respect for one another. It is amazing how many way we are alike though were enemies at onetime. I’ve given him a copy of the book I put together of photographs of Vietnam and he was quite pleased.

Driving Mr. Bill

2008-06-03T15:23:00.000+07:00

Driving here is a real experience. In a city with nearly one million people and ninety five percent on motorbikes, it can be total chaos at rush hour. I have yet to see a stop sign and there are only a few stop lights. They don't really count though.No one stops for them. It's amazing how the traffic weaves through itself with clearances so thin you couldn't slip a credit card between the bikes. Yet there are not many accidents and I have seen no sign of road-rage. Everyone just moves along and allows others to slip in and out around them. You have to be on your toes though. It's common for people to just stop in the middle of the road to chat or look around.

My School

2008-05-29T15:11:00.001+07:00

I am teaching at the AVIEC (Am-Viet International English Center) School in Da Nang. It's nothing fancy but it is air conditioned and kind of funky-fun. I am the only American teacher on campus but they do have one Australian, one Brit, and a guy from Denmark. I am teaching Lower-Intermediate level, which means their English is slightly better than my Vietnamese, and I have 15 students ranging in ages from 14-35. I will be teaching young children (8-12) starting on Sunday. Having never taught to this age group, I am a bit apprehensive but here we go.

Moving In

2008-05-28T07:37:00.000+07:00

Well, I finally moved into my house on Sunday the 25th. One would think it would be easy to move in when all you have can fit into two suitcases. It just isn't so. There are dishes to buy, sheets and bedding, food, hangers, clothes lines, silverware, and towels. Not to mention getting Internet service, trash service, electricity, water, and living as a foreigner permit. When you compound this by not having a clue what the labels say or what the regulations require, or how to ask directions, is gets a little complex. It took two hours just to find thread tape to hook up the washer. And oh yea, I had to buy a couch. Whoa, there's a challenge. I finally got one and it's pretty weird but the least weird I saw out of about fifteen different stores. Then of course there is the delivery problem, a big problem when your house doesn't have an address. Anyway, it's all done now. At least I think it is. I hope it is. I am in and by God, I am going to stay in for a while.

I have, however, been able to meet most of my new neighbors. I guess I am kind of the talk of the block and everyone is curious about the new guy, the FNG. (If you served in Nam, you understand FNG, if not, I can't explain.) My neighbor to my left teaches English out of her house. Her English is better than my Vietnamese but not much. Her husband's friend is the chief of police in my neighborhood and they all came over for a beer the other night. It is good to know these people besides, they are real nice.

I also had a couple of older gentlemen over last night. They are classical musicians and veterans of the American War. They served with the North. They heard that I was a vet and were curious about me and wanted to know why I came back to Vietnam, for what purpose. They seemed genuinely pleased to learn I am teaching English here and really got enthusiastic when I showed them the book of photos of Vietnam I have published. I signed a copy and gave it to them. Now, they have invited me to their next concert. I guess the Danang Symphony is very well respected and it is apparently an honor to get such an invitation. I will take them up on it for sure.

I met with another neighbor and went for a swim on China Beach at 5 in the morning. That's the time the locals go to the beach because it's just too damn hot to go in the middle of the day. It's interesting how the beach is completely deserted between 9am - 6pm but looks like Coney Island early in the morning. It's a great way to start the day and I hope to make it part of my routine.

Phase II - Going Bamboo

2008-05-23T20:37:00.000+07:00

Real life is starting to come around now and I am starting to go "Bamboo". I practiced my driving skills again and even ventured downtown for awhile. That was definitely an experience to put on the record. I actually did great and didn't run into anyone. I also was able to get a haircut and order my lunch all by myself. I ordered chicken and got fish. Close enough. Chicken is "ga" fish is "ca".

I got a call from the school this afternoon saying they wanted to have a meeting with me at 3:30. At the meeting they informed me they wanted me to teach that afternoon (5:30). Not much notice but I kind of BSed my way through and it seemed to go OK. Not great, but OK. Since I wasn't expecting to teach, I didn't take my camera with me so I don't have any pictures to show of my school or my class. I will try to get some when I teach again on Monday. Hopefully the air conditioner will be working better then. There was some trouble with it this evening and I was sweating like a pig for the first hour. I have 15 students ranging in age from 14 to 27. They are classified as being "low-intermediate" which means they just look at me with blank expressions. I will also be teaching young children on Sunday mornings but told the school I couldn't start until next week since I am moving into my house this Sunday. So much for teaching advanced students beginning on the first of the month! Lesson #1 in Vietnam is expect the unexpected. That was true in 1969 and is true today.

2008-05-21T10:53:00.000+07:00

Sapa

I have spent the last week travelling through the northern part of Vietnam. If you are ever over here, a place that is well worth the effort to reach is Sapa. This mountainous area is a favorite for many tourists because of the incredible terraced landscape and the colorful clothing of the local ethnic tribes. The weather is also much cooler up here so it can be a great way to find relief from the heat of the low lands. The best way to get here is by train. There are several options running from hard seats to fairly comfortable sleeper cars. The sleeper will run about $25-35 per person but it's well worth it for the 10 hr trip. You leave Hanoi Rail Station at about 10:00 pm and arrive in Lao Cai at 8 in the morning. It's another 90 min bus ride to the town.

Another place to see while you are in the north is the town of Ba Ca. Every Sunday the locals come down from the hills to what is known as The Lover's Market. It is basically the big day for the tribe people to shop, to barter, and to meet people from the distant villages. The richly colored clothing worn by the local women is a photographer's dream come true.

Ha Long Bay

Of course, no trip to the North would be complete without spending the night on a boat on Ha Long Bay. It is said there are over 3000 islands jutting up out of this bay and is one of the most spectacular places I have seen. A night on one of the 'Junks" is a great way to get away from the noise and congestion and the seafood that is served is outstanding. You can swim off the boat, snorkle, kyak, or just sit on the deck and drink beer if you want.

It is about a three hour ride by car or bus from Hanoi but is worth it. Besides, there is some pretty interesting scenery along the way. I have been to Ha Long many times now and am always in awe whenever I return.

Final Days with the Group

2008-05-14T15:02:00.000+07:00

Mr. Luong

On May 11, we invited a former enemy to join us for dinner. This is always an evening that is filled with anxiousness for all but is a very rewarding experience. To meet with someone who was once on 'the other side of the wire' is something that brings a full mixture of emotion. It brings out the human side of war that not many have the chance to experience.

Mr. Luong served with the North in Hue during the Tet Offensive of 1968. This was one of the most difficult battles of the war for both sides because it took place in a major city and left no room for retreat for either side. Of course, much of the conversation revolved around our personal experiences during the war but the biggest part of the evening was spent talking about our families and what we have done with our lives since that time. It is incredible how much similarity there is between all of us. We shared many toasts and many laughs before the evening was over.

May 13, 2008

Al and Marty flew back to Saigon this morning and will be on their way home tomorrow. It has been a great trip for all of us but the time seemed to slip past too quickly. I don't know if either of them found what they were looking for but I do know they have left Vietnam with a different vision of this country and memories that will help to put some of the demons of the war to rest.

After seeing Al and Marty off, I hopped a train to Hanoi. This 19hr trip makes the flight over the Pacific seem like a short hop. The train is old and the seats, though cusioned, are tightly cramped and don't recline. I was the only Caucasion on the train (or at least in my car) and aroused curiousity in many of those sitting around me. I had conversations with some of the people but none of them spoke much English and we were not able to talk in much depth. Everyone was very friendly and curious why I had come to Vietnam. When I explained that I had come to teach English in Da Nang, there was a lot of chatter throughout the car and many smiles.

I am meeting a man that I met on my last trip over for dinner this evening. Mr. Houng is an English scholar and works with the American Embasy here in Hanoi. I will be great to have a conversation with him and share some thoughts about my new adventure.

Tomorrow, I catch another overnight train and go up to the northern border to a town named Sapa. I was here in 2000 and am looking forward to having another chance to see it. This area is well known for its variety of ethnic mountain people and the amazing terraced rice fields. It is a photographers dream.

2008-05-11T13:20:00.000+07:00

Since my last entry, we took the train north to Hue (pronounced ‘Way’). There are only two other vets with me this trip and I have to admit it is nice with a small group. We are able to do things on the spur of the moment without a lot of logistical problems to deal with.

Hue used to be the imperial city and was also the scene of some of the heaviest fighting during the war. Now, it is a great place to visit with plenty of cultural and historical sites to see. I also like Hue because of the fabulous hotel here. The Morin is one of the oldest hotels in the area and was founded by a Frenchman back in the 30’s. It’s colonial charm and quiet courtyard make it a place where I always try to stay when I am in the area.

Yesterday, we went to the DMZ and visited many of the places where we served during the war. So much has changed since those days that it is difficult if not impossible to recognize. The scars from the war have almost completely healed and areas that were once the site of so much tragedy are now lush and inhabited. It’s hard to imagine the violence and suffering that once took place here. There are places like The Rockpile that will always remain the same in spite of the years that have passed.

Tonight, we have a dinner planned with a gentleman who served on the other side during the war. I enjoy meeting with these men and learning more of what it was like from their perspective. I am always amazed by how much similarity there is between us and how we have grown to have the same hopes and dreams even though we were enemies at one time.

Bad Day

2008-05-06T09:13:00.000+07:00

Things have not been going particularly well this week. Three members of my group had to cancel at the last minute because of obligations at work and another member had his flight in the US canceled which caused him to miss his international flight and all the arrangements that were set up for his arrival. He is in country now but won’t be here in Da Nang for another couple of hours.

But most difficult has been getting the news that my step-son Lon took a serious fall rock climbing and is in very bad shape with head and back injuries. It’s not easy being this far away from home during a family crisis. I know there is not much I could do even if I were home but I wish I were there to help at this time. If things get any worse, I will consider returning to the States for a while. It’s a wait and see situation, the kind that I am not too good with.

So far, my trusty guide Anh has been such an enormous help to me. She has helped with getting my house arrangements set up, my travel arrangements organized, and has been teaching me Vietnamese and teaching me to drive a motor bike in this country. She has also introduced me to several of her friends that speak a little English. I will miss her once she returns to Saigon. From then on, I will be on my own. Well, I was looking for adventure and here it is.

2008-05-04T17:04:00.000+07:00

I have now been in Vietnam for a week, a very busy week. After leaving Ho Chi Minh City I flew up to Da Nang and feel like I have gotten a lot done in the past four days. The first major business to deal with was getting the contract on my house finalized. I was able to meet the owner and make a walk-through of the place before paying the rent for the next six months. Not only did that confirm that the house will be mine, it also confirmed that I really am here to stay for a while. Whew! One giant step out of the way.

Since the next day was Vietnam’s Independence Day (April 30, 1975 is when the war was officially over) most businesses were closed so I headed up into the mountains just north of Da Nang and spent the night on Ba Na Mountain. This area was built up as a resort by the French during the 30’s because of the cool climate and spectacular setting. The 1800 meter mountain is covered with dense forest and is often blanketed with clouds in the morning. Absolutely beautiful. Most of the old French manors have been destroyed by both time and war but there are new resorts up there now and the area takes on an atmosphere that reminds me of Disneyland.

This is not the first time I have gotten back into the forest since the war but each time I do, the smell and sounds trigger off memory switches that have lain dormant for so long. The senses become heightened and the adrenaline flows. I have to confess that it is not an all together unpleasant feeling and is perhaps part of why I return to Vietnam.

Returning to Da Nang early the next afternoon, I had to clean up and go to a meeting with the director of the school where I will be teaching. It has been arranged for me to begin work on June 2^nd. I still don’t know exactly what my schedule will be but I should find out in a week or so.

The next day, I took a motor bike south of Da Nang about 30 km to village of Hoi An where I caught a speedboat to Cham Island. This is actually a group of five small jungled islands surrounded by clear blue water and coral reefs. I did some snorkeling, some

hiking, and bought some lobsters from one of the fishermen who cooked them up on the spot for me. Though the island has some pretty primitive guest houses, I opted to stay at the place where they set up small tents on the beach for you. It was like paradise.

Tomorrow, my group of vets is supposed to start arriving and I will be with them for a couple of weeks. We will be traveling around the our old stomping grounds along the DMZ and I probably won’t have a lot of time to add to this blog until the group is over. I really am looking forward to the time with the guys but I am also ready to start settling into my life of living and working abroad.

Saigon

2008-04-29T16:00:00.001+07:00

Saigon is a stew, a bubbling blend of sights, smells, and sounds, that create a flavor that is unique and full of mystery. Though the bicycles and Cyclos have given way to motorbikes and taxis, Saigon is constant. It is constantly moving, constantly changing. I have been here many times now and am always intrigued. No city I have been to can compare with the magic of Saigon.

It's April 29 and I have been in Saigon for three days now. Tomorrow I head up to Da Nang and meet with the director of my school as well as close the deal on renting my house. My group of vets are arriving on the fourth so I want to have this stuff taken care of before I get busy with the group.

I really haven't done much in Saigon since I am staying at a guesthouse that's a little removed from the main part of the city. I my go into town later this evening to watch the Olympic Flame pass through.

Final Day at Home

2008-04-24T17:12:00.000+07:00

It's early Thursday morning and I will be heading to the airport in 24 hrs. Today is house cleaning day and I have to do some last minute banking as well as shut down my phone/TV/Internet service. I think I have all the details taken care of but I know there are some things that I have forgotten to do. They will come to me when I'm 30,000 feet above the Pacific.

The past few days have been spent mostly on saying good-byes to family and friends and getting my bags packed. It is not easy to fit a year of needs into two suitcases (two large suitcases). However, I find some satisfaction in knowing that I am shedding all the clutter that I have become buried under. I think of George Carlin's routine on "Stuff".

I will arrive in Saigon on Saturday night a 10:00 pm and spend a couple of days there before flying up to Da Nang on the 29th. The school where I will be teaching is called AVIEC (American Vietnamese International English Center). Though I stil don't have all the details, I will be teaching business professionals who already speak English but want to polish it. I will be teaching Monday through Friday from 5:30 -8:30 pm and am supposed to begin around the first of June. I have an appointment set up to meet with the school on May 2 and also need to sign the lease on my house that day.

Before I begin teaching, I will be meeting up with four American vets who want me to show them around for a couple of weeks. We won't be traveling though the entire country as I normally do but will be spending our time in Da Nang and in Hue. We will get up to the DMZ and other places where we spent time during the war but won't have enough time to get up to Hanoi as a group. It's too bad because I really like Hanoi. If time allows, I will head up there on my own for a few days after the men go home.

Well, it's almost 5:00 in the morning and I had better get started with my day. I wanted to make this entry early because I won't have Internet access this evening and it will probably be a week before I can make my next entry on the blog.

Take a deep breath, Billy. Here we go!

Four Days and A Wake Up

2008-04-21T06:52:00.001+07:00

Time is winding down and I will be heading out of here before I know it. It seems to have been a long time coming but now that it is getting down to the wire, I just hope there is enough time to all the last minute details taken care of.

I had a "Going Away" party on Friday afternoon/evening and I was touched by the number of people who showed up. Damn, the place was packed and all seemed to be having a good time. I know I had a good time. There were probably seventy-five people who showed up (I even knew some of them). Really though, it was pretty moving to see so many people who I consider friends all together in one place. Jim came out from New York and Ron flew in from Chicago. Both of these men have made it back to Nam with me in recent years and both of them served as Marines over there during the war. I really appreciated the effort they made to see me off.

My House
It looks like I have a place to live in Da Nang. Anh was very instrumental in pulling this together. Bless you Anh. You have pulled through once again. Though I haven't seen the place in person yet, I did get some photos. It's a two bedroom, three bath (indoor and flushable), furnished, and nicely decorated. And it is less than three blocks from China Beach. I can live with this. Hopefully, some friends and family will come visit while I'm here. There is room but only for four days max.

This view looks through my living room. Yes, this wall comes complete with fountains and a skylight.

The kitchen looks great too. All I need to do now is learn how to cook.

General Information About Da Nang

2008-04-12T22:31:00.001+07:00

For those of you not familiar with where Vietnam is, I have included a map. It sits on the Pacific Rim just below China and to the east of India. Da Nang, the city where I will be living is on the coast about half way up the country (red Arrow). Da Nang is Vietnam's fourth largest city and has a population of nearly a million people. It was also the place where U.S. Marines first landed in Vietnam in 1965 and was used throughout the war as a transit center for Marines coming into and leaving Vietnam. With it's deep sea port and the river, Da Nang is a very active city and is quickly becoming a center of commerce in Vietnam.

This close up satellite image of Da Nang shows the location of the school where I will be teaching (upper yellow marker) and where I believe the house I am checking into is located (lower yellow marker). My house is very close to what was known as China Beach.

Waypoint

2008-04-12T11:34:00.000+07:00

It's Friday evening about midnight right now. Two weeks from this time I will be somewhere over the Pacific. I had dinner tonight with friends that I probably will not see again for sometime. It was a good evening.

I am in a reflective mood this evening. I suppose that is not so unusual for someone who is aware that his life is at a junction, a waypoint. It's like when I was gearing up to go to Vietnam for the first time in 1969. I try to envision what will come but only see a distant fog. It's damned exciting and a little scary at the same time. Even though I have some anxious moments, I have no doubt that I am doing the right thing. It seems my entire life has been pushing me down this path. When I look back at where I've been, what I've done, and then look at where I am, it all makes sense. I feel I am where I should be. As Don McClean wrote, "All roads lead to where I stand."

Moving to Vietnam

2008-04-10T06:26:00.000+07:00

My name is Bill and I am about to embark on a new adventure to teach English in Vietnam. I leave my home in Colorado at the end of April (two weeks from now) and set up house in Da Nang, Vietnam. It's exciting but does come with a few anxieties. But before I get into the things that are happening as they happen, I want to lay down a little background about myself.

My interest in Vietnam comes as the result of my serving over there with the Marine Corps during the war. I was with a ground company along the DMZ during 1969. For many years after I returned from the war, I pushed Vietnam to the back of my life and became a professional photographer. But my experience with Vietnam had a way of popping back up on occasion. So, after selling my business in 1994, I decided to return to Vietnam and see what it was like now that the war was over. That trip changed my life nearly as much as did the war days and I have returned many times since. Most of the time I put together groups of veterans and helped them get to places that were important to them.

My wife passed away in March of 2007 and I needed to find something to focus on again. I had been a Photoshop instructor at a local college here in Colorado for over seven years and knew that I enjoyed teaching. I no longer had a job keeping me nailed down. And I still have pretty good health. In September, I returned to Vietnam and sought out a few places where I might possibly teach English for a year or so. I was more than a little surprised when after only a day of interviews, I had been accepted by a school in Da Nang. I just needed to get my certificate to teach English as a Foreign Language before I could start. I have done that now and am ready to head out.

Getting Ready
As of this writing, I am almost done with all the BS that has to be done before one can just head out. I have my home rented out, my bills paid, banking organized, TV, phone, Internet all notified. I have made out and legalized my will, power of attorneys, taken care of all my insurance changes. I've got my visa and passport in order and have my one-way ticket purchased. I have even gone to Kansas and Oregon to see immediate family within the past month. Now all I really to concentrate on is getting my bags packed. I don't have a clue what I need to pack yet but I am stacking up things that come to mind. Man, have we ever burdened ourselves with electronic toys; computers, cameras, IPods, accessories, power converters. It's tempting to just leave it all behind.

As mentioned earlier, I am only 15 days from departure and reality is beginning to set in. I have never done anything quite like this before. Sure, I have been to Vietnam often enough and recently enough to have an idea of what to expect as far as what it's like over there. I've done enough study on the history of Vietnam that I probably know more about it than most of the people who live there. But living and working in a foreign country is a lot different than visiting for a month. I speak no Vietnamese. It's aways been easy to find someone over there who speaks at least a little English. But I am learning the language via The Rosetta Stone program. It really is as good as they say it is. It's going to be interesting the first time I have to go out for groceries, however. I am hoping to trade private English lessons for Vietnamese lessons with one of my students. But, as a lady I know in Saigon always says, "Never try, never know."

That's it for now. I will try to keep this updated on a regular basis.