The Mighty Mekong

After spending five days in Thailand, we drove to the small northern town of Chiang Khong to begin our two day cruise down the Mekong River. We had to catch a small shuttle boat across the river to get our Visas into Laos then boarded a long boat to take us down the river about 300 km to our final destination of Luang Pra Bang, Laos.

The journey is a journey through time, taking us past remote villages and spectacular wilderness areas where few outsiders venture. The geography seems to change endlessly as we wind our way down this mighty river. The river is low this time of year but our boat man said it was even lower than normal. The Chinese have put numerous dams higher up stream, causing the Mekong to reduce to not much more than a trickle in many areas we pass through.

We pull in for the night in the small village named Pak Tha and have a great meal and some cold beer at the guesthouse we have reserved for the night. The air is cool early the next morning when we head out for our final leg of the trip, causing us to wrap ourselves in blankets as we watch the local people in their morning routines of fishing and washing clothing along the river banks. We even saw some 'working' elephants being led to the river for their morning bath and drink before beginning their day of hauling huge timbers from the surrounding rain forest

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Doc Smith and Hoa

In 1967 Glenn Smith was a Corpsman working with Marine CAP Unit Charlie 2-2-4 in the small village of Dai Loc, just south of Da Dang. A CAP unit (Combined Action Program)consisted of a small group of Marines assigned to live in a village and help pacify and protect the people in the area. As a result, they often got to know the local people quite well. While Glenn spent most of his time on the Marine base located on Hill 65 just outside of Dai Loc, he would often go down to the village to help the villagers and the Marines.

Hoa was a young boy of about ten when Doc Smith arrived in his village. Though only a young boy, Hoa idolized the Marines and hung out with them every day. He polished their boots, cleaned their weapons, and often slept in the bunkers with them. He considered himself a Marine. Today, Hoa's guesthouse near Marble Mountain has become almost a legend to the backpackers that pass through the Da Nang area. His English and his "take it easy" attitude have made him loved and respected by most who have gotten to know him. He has become a very dear friend of mine.

One cannot spend much time around Hoa without hearing of Charlie 2-2-4 and the days of the war. He often speaks of the Marines who lived in his village and became such a big part of his life. I decided one day to do a little research on C-2-2-4 and came across an email address for Glenn Smith. When I asked Glenn if he knew or remembered a boy named Hoa, Glenn replied immediately that he did indeed remember him. He even had photographs of the two of them together.This initial contact resulted in Glenn coming back to Vietnam, something he had often considered but never acted upon. Hoa and Glenn got back together after forty three years.

The death of Marine Sgt. Flynn was an event that both Hoa and Glenn remembered very well. Glenn was the Corpsman who retrieved Flynn's body after he was shot while trying to cross the river. Hoa thought of Sgt. Flynn as almost a father figure. Before coming back to Vietnam, Glenn had some dogtags made for Sgt. Flynn and wanted to put them in the river close to where he was killed. We went back to the scene and had to walk across a muddy flood plain to get to the river. Hoa probably doesn't weigh a hundred pounds and skirted over the mud like a waterbug. Glenn, on the other hand, weighs more than two hundred pounds and sunk into the sucking mud up to his knees. As Glenn was trying to retrieve his shoe that had been pulled off by the muck, Hoa turned to him and said, "Glenn, walk lightly."

December

It's hard to believe that another year has begun. The month of December flew by us.We had some friends, Al and Carol Chesson,come over for their second tour over here. They were on the first trip I led with Anh as my guide over here in 2002. We tried to get a look at places they weren't able to see the first time. We tried to get back up into the DMZ again where Al and I served, but the rain was coming down in buckets. We spent the night in Khe Sanh but had to get out of there early in the morning to avoid becoming stuck by mudslides across Highway 9. 

 

 

 

 

 

We caught the train to Ninh Binh south of Hanoi and stayed for a few nights to go up the river on small boats. It's magnificent there. The landscape is similar to Ha Long Bay but on dry land.

 

Next, we headed west to a small village called Mai Chau where we did a 'homestay' in a stilted house. The bamboo forests were unbelievable and the village, though becoming a little touristy, was fun to wander around in
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The night train took us up to the northern tip of Vietnam to visit the popular villages of Sapa and Bac Ha. Both of these areas are known for the colorful clothing worn by the local women. Sapa, with its incredible terracing and cool climate has made it a favorite of travelers for nearly a century.

 Each Sunday, the town of Bac Ha holds its Lover's Market where the local people for miles around put on their finest garments and gather for a time of socializing and romance.

After that, we went to Hanoi to pick up Glenn. Glenn served as a Corpsman and was on his first trip back to Vietnam since the war. We all loaded up in a van the next morning and headed off to Ha Long Bay. I don't know how many times I've seen the Bay but I am always in awe of it. To spend the night on a boat in Ha Long Bay is an experience that never gets old.

November 9-10, 2010

November has been a busy month for us. To start it off, Anh and I got married. Actually, we got 'officially' married in March but didn't have the party until November ninth. You aren't considered really married until you have the celebration with family and friends. We had friends from the US come over and also some American friends who live in Bangkok come for the occasion. This plus a number of our Vietnamese and foreign friends living in Da Nang made for a great wedding party. 

 

The day following our party was November 10, the Marine Corps birthday. So of course, another party was in order and there was no better place to hold the party than on China Beach. There were eight of us in attendance, six Vietnam veterans, one Iraqi vet, and a Vietnamese man who hung out with the Marine CAP unit in his village when he was a boy. In traditional form, we had an NCO cut the cake then offer the first piece to the oldest Marine present (Suel) and the second piece to the youngest Marine (Sam).

Vietnam:Beyond War

Several years ago I published a book titled Vietnam: A Second Look. It is a photo book about my thoughts and feelings as a veteran returning to Vietnam for another look at the places where I had been during the war. Well, I've been working on a new one and it's starting to shape up. My new book is titled Vietnam: Beyond War and will be a collection of thoughts and photographs on what it's been like to live in Vietnam. Though it is still far from being finished, here is a preview of what this new book should look like. You can click on the images to get a larger view of them.

Back in Town

I've been a pretty busy guy for the past several months so I have neglected to post anything new on my blog for a while. I guess it's time to get caught up on things.

First and foremost on the list is I got married! Yep, that's right! I married Anh on March 31 of this year and we are happy as can be. We haven't had time to celebrate with a wedding party yet put are trying to get that set up now. Looks like it could be in November when many of our friends are back in country. I will keep you posted.

I had to return to the US the first of July and was there for six weeks getting my house in Colorado ready to rent. It looks like I may be in Vietnam for a while but don't want to sell my home in the States. It's not a good time to sell right now and besides, I love my house there. While I was 'home' I took time to go to Kansas and visit my mother then went to Charleston, S.C. for my Marine Reunion. Those things are always a hoot. It worked out well because my sister and her husband live in North Carolina, which is not too far from Charleston, so I drove up to see them as well. All in all, it was a busy time but very much worth it.

I am back in Da Nang, Vietnam now and trying to get acclimatized to the food, weather, pace of life, and married life. It is good! Da Nang seemed to change so much just in the time I was away. There is so much building and energy going on over here that things change on a daily basis.

Anh and I are gearing up for what looks to be a busy next few months. We have several tours scheduled and several friends coming over to visit. Some of my kids may even get over here before Christmas. I can't wait to introduce them to Anh.

I haven't been taking many photos lately but will try to get some new pictures up soon.

Ho Chi Minh Trail

Once a network of supply routes for war and destruction, the Ho Chi Minh Trail today offers one of Vietnam's most beautiful experiences. This magnificent road, running the length of the country from the Chinese border to the Delta, winds through the mountains and valleys along the Cambodian and Laos borders. Though the road is surfaced and wide enough for cars and small trucks, only a few vehicles travel this route. It is a motorcyclist's dream.




It takes about twenty minutes to get through the traffic and chaos of the populated cities before you head west across the rice fields and into the mountains. The roads are unmarked and there are very few places where English is spoken. But for those who have a sense of adventure, it is an experience to remember.

I have traveled the trail between Da Nang and Hue at least six times now (all the way to Khe Sanh a couple of times) and am still in awe of the beauty and wonder of it all. It's a four day trip through the mountains and jungles, skirting the Laos border, offering a unique view of the mountain people and their way of life.

There always seem to be magic moments that come along when you least expect them. On one trip, we passed by an old veteran with one arm who was needing a ride to the next village. Of course, we couldn't pass him by so we gave him a lift and had a couple of beers with him once we reached a local watering hole.

I've started working for an outfit that will guide you through the trail, either driving a vintage, Russian Minsk bike or riding on the back of an experienced driver's bike. I usually take my own bike for the long trips. I like it because it has more padding in the seat. Of course, I wear a helmet and proper riding attire on the road, not as shown.
















We offer day trips around Hoi An or four and five day trips up to the DMZ. We wind our way through areas where some of the heaviest fighting of the war took place. It's pretty incredible to cool off in a fresh mountain stream where armies once clashed.