Back Online

It's been a while since I've updated his blog because I changed Internet providers and that took a while. Things move slow over here at times. And just when they were ready to hook me up again, someone broke into my place and stole my laptop. That's a big loss not only for the computer but for the stuff that was on it. I had a bunch of photos ready to post too. Anyway, I'm back online now and want to let people know I'm still keeping on over here.

School has mellowed a bit since the summer break for the regular schools is about to wrap up and the teachers who have been away on holiday have returned. I have a little more free time now but still have to be at school six days a week. This doesn't give me much time to get out and explore too far so I have been keeping close to home. I have done a couple of interesting things though.

Those of you who spent time in Da Nang will probably remember Monkey Mountain. It's a peninsula that sticks out just to the north of the city. We used it for a radar station during the war. Today, the area is pretty sleepy but they have begun to build several resorts there. I went out there last week for a day just to get out of the city and found a great little hide-a-way that's off the beaten path. In fact, it looks like you are on a dead end to get there. They have some grass covered cabanas and small tables set up on one of the prettiest little beaches I have seen. And they serve great seafood and cold beer. What more could you ask for? There was a small party going on while I was there and they invited me over for a toast. I don't know what we were toasting but I had to be polite and drink a little who knows what with them.

Then a couple of days later, some friends and I (six of us in all) hired a small fishing boat to take us about ten miles up the coast. It was spectacular with the clear blue water and rich green mountains. We didn't catch any fish but Anh had stopped at the market before we left and picked some up for us just in case. We made "Hot Pot" (a seafood soup) right on the boat. There was a full moon that evening and we stayed out lisening to music and eating until after ten o'clock. A terific evening for all of us.

I've been in country for three months now and am getting over the novelty of being here but there are always things that come up that are surprises. Not all of the pleasant but surprises none the less. Da Nang is like any big city, there is the good and the not so good to deal with. But as far as Vietnam goes, Da Nang is the place to be right now. There is so much building and improvement going on all over the city that you can feel the energy.

Several have asked about my neighborhood. Here are a couple of shots of my street. The blue house is my neighbors to the north and the shed is directly across the street from me. There is also a shot looking down my street to the south.

I do want to get out and do some exploration before the wet season begins though. Mr. Luan (see earlier post) has invited me to come to his homeland in the central highlands with him. He has shown me some books he's helped put together about the mountain people and it looks fascinating. Hopefully I will be able to get a couple of days off in a row and go with him. It's in the area around Plieku and Doc To, about half way between Saigon and Da Nang.

Wedding Party

It was a big day on the block today. My next door neighbor’s son is getting married and they threw a big party for him in the street in front of my house. Since it was basically set up on my driveway, I was invited, of course. The street was covered by a metal roof and decorated up as only the Vietnamese can do. By noon, the party was in full swing, complete with a band, karaoke, great food, and an endless supply of beer. I think the main object of the party was to see how much the American could drink because everyone wanted me to join in a toast with them. I would have been very rude for me to decline. Whoa, I did pretty damn well keeping up with them but I’m am glad I didn’t have to drive home.

New Friends

I’ve often been asked how people over here treat Americans and if there is much resentment as a result of the war. I can say without reservation I have felt no sense of resentment. On the contrary, when people learn that I am an American, they often go out of their way to be helpful. I’ve only been in country for two months now and have made more friends than I would have thought possible in a year. Of course, I am a curiosity in the neighborhood and all of my neighbors have had to stop by to check me out. But once we have introduced ourselves, they are always quick with a genuine smile and a wave. I’ve even been invited to the wedding of my neighbor’s daughter next week. That should be interesting.


This is Phan Duc Nhuan, a man I met a couple of weeks ago. He is having a house built in the neighborhood and he heard about me being here. He stopped by to introduce himself and we seemed to hit it off right away, especially when he learned that I served here during the war. He is an intelligent, gentle man who is retired but plays in the local symphony. And he fought on the other side of the wire during the war. Since he doesn’t speak English and I speak no Vietnamese, we have had to limit our conversations through a translator when one is available but we have learned a lot about each other and are becoming good friends with a great respect for one another. It is amazing how many way we are alike though were enemies at onetime. I’ve given him a copy of the book I put together of photographs of Vietnam and he was quite pleased.

Driving Mr. Bill

Driving here is a real experience. In a city with nearly one million people and ninety five percent on motorbikes, it can be total chaos at rush hour. I have yet to see a stop sign and there are only a few stop lights. They don't really count though.No one stops for them. It's amazing how the traffic weaves through itself with clearances so thin you couldn't slip a credit card between the bikes. Yet there are not many accidents and I have seen no sign of road-rage. Everyone just moves along and allows others to slip in and out around them. You have to be on your toes though. It's common for people to just stop in the middle of the road to chat or look around.

My School

I am teaching at the AVIEC (Am-Viet International English Center) School in Da Nang. It's nothing fancy but it is air conditioned and kind of funky-fun. I am the only American teacher on campus but they do have one Australian, one Brit, and a guy from Denmark. I am teaching Lower-Intermediate level, which means their English is slightly better than my Vietnamese, and I have 15 students ranging in ages from 14-35. I will be teaching young children (8-12) starting on Sunday. Having never taught to this age group, I am a bit apprehensive but here we go.

Moving In

Well, I finally moved into my house on Sunday the 25th. One would think it would be easy to move in when all you have can fit into two suitcases. It just isn't so. There are dishes to buy, sheets and bedding, food, hangers, clothes lines, silverware, and towels. Not to mention getting Internet service, trash service, electricity, water, and living as a foreigner permit. When you compound this by not having a clue what the labels say or what the regulations require, or how to ask directions, is gets a little complex. It took two hours just to find thread tape to hook up the washer. And oh yea, I had to buy a couch. Whoa, there's a challenge. I finally got one and it's pretty weird but the least weird I saw out of about fifteen different stores. Then of course there is the delivery problem, a big problem when your house doesn't have an address. Anyway, it's all done now. At least I think it is. I hope it is. I am in and by God, I am going to stay in for a while.

I have, however, been able to meet most of my new neighbors. I guess I am kind of the talk of the block and everyone is curious about the new guy, the FNG. (If you served in Nam, you understand FNG, if not, I can't explain.) My neighbor to my left teaches English out of her house. Her English is better than my Vietnamese but not much. Her husband's friend is the chief of police in my neighborhood and they all came over for a beer the other night. It is good to know these people besides, they are real nice.

I also had a couple of older gentlemen over last night. They are classical musicians and veterans of the American War. They served with the North. They heard that I was a vet and were curious about me and wanted to know why I came back to Vietnam, for what purpose. They seemed genuinely pleased to learn I am teaching English here and really got enthusiastic when I showed them the book of photos of Vietnam I have published. I signed a copy and gave it to them. Now, they have invited me to their next concert. I guess the Danang Symphony is very well respected and it is apparently an honor to get such an invitation. I will take them up on it for sure.

I met with another neighbor and went for a swim on China Beach at 5 in the morning. That's the time the locals go to the beach because it's just too damn hot to go in the middle of the day. It's interesting how the beach is completely deserted between 9am - 6pm but looks like Coney Island early in the morning. It's a great way to start the day and I hope to make it part of my routine.

Phase II - Going Bamboo

Real life is starting to come around now and I am starting to go "Bamboo". I practiced my driving skills again and even ventured downtown for awhile. That was definitely an experience to put on the record. I actually did great and didn't run into anyone. I also was able to get a haircut and order my lunch all by myself. I ordered chicken and got fish. Close enough. Chicken is "ga" fish is "ca".

I got a call from the school this afternoon saying they wanted to have a meeting with me at 3:30. At the meeting they informed me they wanted me to teach that afternoon (5:30). Not much notice but I kind of BSed my way through and it seemed to go OK. Not great, but OK. Since I wasn't expecting to teach, I didn't take my camera with me so I don't have any pictures to show of my school or my class. I will try to get some when I teach again on Monday. Hopefully the air conditioner will be working better then. There was some trouble with it this evening and I was sweating like a pig for the first hour. I have 15 students ranging in age from 14 to 27. They are classified as being "low-intermediate" which means they just look at me with blank expressions. I will also be teaching young children on Sunday mornings but told the school I couldn't start until next week since I am moving into my house this Sunday. So much for teaching advanced students beginning on the first of the month! Lesson #1 in Vietnam is expect the unexpected. That was true in 1969 and is true today.